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• Include mouse cursor in capture: You may want to show the
mouse cursor in your screen captures to point out some feature. If
so, select the Include Cursor check box in the Capture Setup dialog
box (refer to Figure 5-9).




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96 Part II: Prettying Up Photographs

Using the Include Cursor option may not work if you™re only capturing an
object. You need to use your cursor to select the object and place the cursor
somewhere other than where you want it in the picture. If you™re capturing a
client area or window, you have to be sure that your cursor is within the cap-
tured area.



Making the capture
After you™re set up to capture from the PC screen in Paint Shop Pro, you™re
ready to make the capture. To capture an image, follow these steps:

1. Click the Capture Now button in the Capture Setup dialog box.
The Capture Now command starts the capture process. (Or, you can
press Shift+C.) Paint Shop Pro discreetly shrinks to a button on the
taskbar to get out of your way.
2. Make any last-minute changes to the thing you want to capture.
You have a final opportunity to adjust the appearance of the screen area
that contains the image ” before you trigger the capture. If you have
chosen the option of capturing the mouse cursor, position the cursor now.
3. Trigger the capture (or wait for the timer to trigger it).
Depending on the kind of trigger you chose (refer to Step 3 in the pre-
ceding section), either right-click with your mouse, press the hot key
(F10, for example), or wait for the time interval to elapse.
If you™re capturing a full screen, Paint Shop Pro restores itself to full
window size now. You™re done and can skip the following steps.
Otherwise, Paint Shop Pro waits for you to choose your capture area.
4. Choose the capture area (unless you™re capturing the full screen).
How you choose the capture area depends on what kind of capture you
have chosen, as shown in Table 5-2.
After you choose the capture area, the capture occurs instantly. Paint
Shop Pro immediately restores itself to its original window size (unless
you have chosen the multiple capture option) and displays the capture
as a new image.
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 if you have chosen the multiple capture option.
Paint Shop Pro acquires each capture as a separate image. You don™t see
them because Paint Shop Pro remains minimized as a button on the
taskbar. To restore Paint Shop Pro, click its button on the Windows
taskbar.




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Chapter 5: Capturing Pictures from Paper, Camera, or Screen


Table 5-2 Pointing Out Your Quarry to Paint Shop Pro
Type of Capture What to Do after Triggering the Capture
Area Left-click once where you want one corner of the area.
Then, with your mouse button released (don™t drag), move
your cursor diagonally to where you want the opposite
corner and click again.
Full screen Do nothing, except for switching back to Paint Shop Pro if
you want to edit your images.
Client area Left-click the window you want.
Window Left-click the window you want.
Object A black rectangle encloses whatever object is directly
under the mouse cursor. You don™t have to keep that
object. Move your cursor around and, when the black
rectangle encloses the object you want, left-click.


For better and easier captures, read and heed these tips:

Set up your screen the way you want it to look before you enable the
trigger (before you press the Capture Now button or press Shift+P). If
you try to make adjustments after you set the trigger, you may acciden-
tally trigger the capture.
To enhance colors ” for those captured colors that come out fairly
accurate, but faded, murky, or otherwise less than satisfactory ” see
Chapter 7.
If you™re capturing an image from your Web browser, use the browser™s
Save As or Copy command rather than the Paint Shop Pro screen cap-
ture. To save an image as a file in Internet Explorer, for example, right-
click the image and choose Save Picture As.




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98 Part II: Prettying Up Photographs




TEAM LinG - Live, Informative, Non-cost and Genuine !
Chapter 6
Fixing Broken Pictures: Removing
Scratches, Blurry Parts,
and Red Eye
In This Chapter
Removing scratches
Removing red eye
Color-correcting photos
Sharpening blurs
Fixing grainy shots
Correcting moir©
Cleaning up JPEG artifacts




C ommon wisdom states that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but
common wisdom is wrong. Beauty is in the lens of your camera ”
because when you have broken photos, nobody looks good. Your cousin
Freddy may be a heartthrob, but if your photos of him are scratched and his
eyes are glowing a dim red, who can tell the difference between Freddy-your-
cousin and Freddy-the-stalker from Nightmare on Elm Street?

Fortunately, Paint Shop Pro has many tools to fix common photo mistakes.
The problems that Paint Shop Pro is good at fixing are shown in this list:

Scratch removal
Red-eye removal
Tinted photos
Blurry areas
Grainy photos
Moir© patterns
JPEG artifacts
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100 Part II: Prettying Up Photographs

Note that this chapter is dedicated to fixing broken photographs ” pictures
where something is obviously very wrong. If you have an otherwise-
unremarkable image and you want to make it look better, that™s easily done.
But, you have to find out how in Chapters 7 and 8.

If your image has a color depth of fewer than 16.7 million colors, Paint Shop
Pro needs to increase the number of colors in your image before you can use
any of these tools and adjustments; if you™re tired of it always asking you
whether it™s okay to increase the colors, see Chapter 16.




Removing Scratches
Photographic scratches usually fall into one of two categories:

Individual scratches that arise from creased photos or scratches on the
negative
Masses of tiny scratches that arise from a photo being stored in a drawer
for a long time, where it has been rattling around with dusty pencil shav-
ings and spare screws.

Fortunately, Paint Shop Pro is adept at handling either type of scratch. (Then
again, if it weren™t, we probably wouldn™t be writing this section.)



Patching up single scratches
Having photos come back from the developer with a scratch is heartbreaking.
Usually, it means that a scratch is on the negative, so making a new print can™t
help. Equally traumatic is having a valued print creased, torn, or scratched
when you don™t have a negative and can™t replace the print. Thankfully, Paint
Shop Pro has an answer for all your folds, creases, and scratches. After you
scan the picture into Paint Shop Pro (refer to Chapter 5), here™s what to do:

1. Zoom in on your scratched area so that it fills the screen.
Select the magnifying-glass icon from the pan and zoom tool group and
zoom in; refer to Chapter 1 for details.
2. Click the Scratch Remover tool from the clone tool group, as shown in
Figure 6-1.
This tool is the trowel-looking icon shown in the margin.




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101
Chapter 6: Fixing Broken Pictures




Figure 6-1:
The Scratch
Remover
tool, and
where to
find it.



3. Position your mouse cursor at one end of the scratch and drag along
the scratch.
As you drag, a frame area stretches to follow your mouse cursor and
extends across the width of the scratch, as shown in Figure 6-2.




Figure 6-2:
Having a
dog requires
familiarity
with
scratching.
Here, Alex
looks
pleased as
we remove
a scratch.



4. Release your mouse button at the end of the scratch.
If you™re following a curved or irregular scratch, release your mouse
button at the point where the curve can no longer fit within the frame.
(Later, you can go back and remove remaining segments of the scratch.)
When you release the mouse button, the Scratch Remover tool picks up
paint from either side of the scratch and pushes it into the scratch. If
you had to stop short of the end of the scratch, drag a second time to
cover the remaining portion.
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102 Part II: Prettying Up Photographs

That™s it! You now have a slightly fuzzy band where the scratch was, but it™s
probably much better than a scratch.

If the scratch wasn™t completely filled in, you may need to repeat your action
for another segment of scratch or adjust some tool options and try again. For
irregular scratches, remove the scratch in sections. To adjust options, first
undo any failed attempt (press Ctrl+Z). Next, open the Tool Options palette
(press F4 to toggle the window on or off). Follow one of these methods:

If the scratch didn™t fill in because the scratch was wider than the tool™s
frame: A value box on the Tool Options palette allows you to adjust the
Scratch Remover™s width in pixels. Increase the value in that box and
again try to remove the scratch. With tool settings larger than 20, the
frame exhibits an inner and outer zone as you drag. As you drag, make
sure that the scratch fits in the inner zone and that the outer zone is com-
pletely filled with the bordering colors you want to use for filling in.
If you end up with an unacceptably wide, fuzzy band where the scratch
was: The tool™s width was set too high. Lower the width value on the Tool
Options palette.
If the end points of the scratch didn™t properly fill in: An outline option
gives you an alternative shape to drag; one that has pointed ends rather
than square ones. That shape is good for clicking in tight spaces or cor-
ners. Click that alternative shape button and then try scratch removal
again.

If the scratch runs along an edge in the image, use the smallest width possible
to avoid blurring that edge. For example, in Figure 6-2, the scratch grazes
Dave™s shoulder, where his shirt ends and the trees begin. The scratch remover
blurs that edge. Rather than remove the entire irregular scratch in one broad
attempt, he may do better to remove that shoulder-grazing portion of the
scratch separately, with the width value set very low. If all else fails, use the
Clone Brush tool, as shown in Chapter 8.



Smoothing masses of scratches
Some photos or their negatives can get pretty seriously abused, picking up
tiny scratches, pits, or other imperfections while being handled, while living
in suitcases or sandy beach bags, or while being badly processed. Hey, who
wouldn™t get a little abraded under those circumstances?

Choose Adjust➪Add/Remove Noise➪Automatic Small Scratch Removal to
display the Automatic Small Scratch Removal dialog box. You can see its
effects on your screen, as shown in Figure 6-3.




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Chapter 6: Fixing Broken Pictures




Figure 6-3:
Automatic
Scratch
Removal
helps this
neglected
photo look
less rough.


Scratchy image Post-Automatic Scratch Removal


If only a part of your picture is scratched, you can use the selection tool
group to restrict the Scratch Removal tool to a limited area. For further selec-
tion details, see Chapter 3.

First, determine whether your scratches are light or dark or both. Next,
select Remove Light Scratches, Remove Dark Scratches, or both. If the pre-
view image on the right side isn™t already adequately cleaned up, change the
Strength setting from Normal to Aggressive. If the effect is removing things
that aren™t scratches or making your photo too fuzzy, try changing Strength
to Mild. (A necessary side effect of cleaning up scratches with this effect is a
bit of added fuzziness, so you can™t be too picky.) If the effect is removing too
many tiny features, try adjusting the Local Contrast Limits option. To restore
low-contrast features, drag the pointer at the left end of the line to the right.
To restore high-contrast features, drag the pointer at the right end of the line
to the left.

If the result is still too fuzzy, check out the section “Removing Noise from
Grainy Shots,” later in this chapter, for alternative methods, like the Salt-and-
Pepper filter.




The Red-Eye Remover
In our youth, we longed for something to remove the telltale morning red eye
that bespoke a long, hard night out. Regrettably, Paint Shop Pro doesn™t
remove that kind of red eye, where the blood vessels in the whites of your
eyes throb reproachingly.

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104 Part II: Prettying Up Photographs

The Paint Shop Pro red-eye remover does, however, fix the evil red glow that
sometimes appears in photographs and emanates from the pupils of the eye
as the result of a camera™s flash. In animals, that glow may not be red, but,
rather, yellow or other colors.

The red-eye remover in Paint Shop Pro is a red-eye replacer. Rather than
attempt to restore the original pupil of the eye, Paint Shop Pro says “The
heck with it!” and paints a whole new pupil, complete with the glint of the
flash bulb. In fact, the red eye remover can even construct a new iris (the
colored portion of your eye) if the camera™s flash has obliterated it!



Reconstructing the pupil
Usually, red eye affects only the pupil. If it has affected the iris in your photo,
see the section “Replacing pupil and iris,” later in this chapter. Here™s how to
get rid of red eye if the flash hasn™t affected the iris area:

1. Choose Adjust➪Photo Fix➪Red Eye Removal.
The amazingly complex-looking Red Eye Removal dialog box appears.
Figure 6-4 gives you the picture.
2. Zoom in close on one of the red eyes, in the preview windows.
To zoom in, click the button displaying a magnifying glass with a + sign,
underneath the left window. Repeat until the eye practically fills the
windows.
To move the photo around behind the window, drag in the right (not left)
window. Your cursor displays a hand icon when it™s over the right window.




Figure 6-4:
If this figure
were in
color, the
left eye™s
pupil would
be a scary
red. Color
Plate C-1b
in the color
insert of this
book shows
the actual
color.


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Chapter 6: Fixing Broken Pictures

If you mistakenly drag or click in the left window, click the Delete Eye
button to remove the replacement iris you have accidentally created.
3. Choose Auto Human Eye (if you™re working on a human) from the
Method selection box.
If you™re working on an animal, choose Auto Animal Eye.
4. Set Iris Size to zero.
Or, if you have changed your mind and decided that the red really does
afflict the iris, see the section “Replacing pupil and iris,” later in this
chapter.
5. Click once on the dead center of the (red) pupil of the eye in the left
window.
A circle appears, with a dot in the center and a square frame surround-
ing the circle. The circle has handles on it (tiny squares you can drag).
Figure 6-4 shows this tool.
You want the circle to just cover the red pupil and be centered over it.
6. Adjust the circle™s position or size if the circle doesn™t cover the red
pupil.
You can drag the circle by the dot in its center. To resize the circle, drag
one of the handles on the box surrounding the circle.
7. Looking at the right window, adjust the Refine control left and right
until the red is just covered by a dark spot (the new pupil).
The Refine control determines to what extent the new pupil covers the
red. When you™re done, little or no red should be showing. For precise
control of Refine, click the slider and press the left- and right-arrow keys
on your keyboard to decrement or increment the slider. The new pupil
should be no larger than the original and shouldn™t cover the eyelid. If
you can™t achieve a result you like, return to Step 5 and resize the circle.
8. Adjust the Pupil Lightness value box to set the lightness of your new
pupil to your liking.
Decrease the value for a darker pupil. For a normal appearance, the

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